Take a Step Back in Time: Highway 77

Highway 77 crosses through Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and Nebraska and
finally peters out in Sioux City, Iowa. Originally a street improved by the 1924
Highway Act, most of the old road has been bypassed by  Interstate 35 in Texas
and Oklahoma. In occasional articles I will trace this great old road, where
pockets of the American past can be seen and appreciated. Though the series
won't be in order just yet (I've got some more traveling to do!) my journeys will
follow a south-north direction. Enjoy!

P.S.: I would love to add old memories and any photos you'd like to share. Don't
be shy! E-mail me at robin@redriverhistorian.com
Part I: Marietta to Davis, Oklahoma

The Arbuckle Mountain Range in the south central part of the state provides a dramatic backdrop for
this road trip. This portion of the road parallels I35, and takes you gently from the Red River bottom
lands into rolling hills.

At first, the highway follows a straight path, passing
a cookie plant in Marietta where you can buy bags
of broken cookies for a few cents. Going north,
you'll meet up with roads beckoning you to discover
Lake Murray State Resort Park. As you wind up
in the outskirts of Ardmore, you'll see old roadside
motels converted to cheap apartments and
former gas stations housing antiques and
flower shops.

Detour: Where US 77 crosses OK 199, take
a meandering drive to a ghost town. Follow
OK 199 east to Gene Autry Road, which runs
north about five miles outside of Ardmore.
Follow the path to Gene Autry, a little town
that used to be called Lou, Dresden, and Berwyn
before deciding to honor the great cowboy hero,
who owned a ranch around here.
Visit the Gene Autry Historical Museum while
you're at it.

You can continue on US 77 from Ardmore, or,
from Gene Autry, you can follow the main
road to OK 53. Go west and meet up with
US 77 by Springer.

North of Springer, US 77 starts to hug the Arbuckle Mountains. You'll pass underneath I35 and for a
short time, you'll parallel I35 to its west. Suddenly, you'll find yourself stepping back in time.

This old stretch of road takes you into the heart of the Arbuckles, where Honey Creek spills into at least
three dramatic waterfalls. The biggest one of them all is Turner Falls, which the city of Davis turned into
a park. Make sure to stop at the scenic overlook, which provides a glimpse onto the falls from atop a
ledge. Along the road are tourist camps, amusement parks, and ruins of scenic hotels straight from
1930s and 1940s. Stone houses hug sharp curves, and souvenir shops beckon travelers to leave their
money. Through the trees, you can spot rusty signs of long forgotten road side camps.

Detour: Turner Falls Park is a real vacation destination, and it makes no bones about it. As it is not a
state park, the city requires an entrance fee, and the grounds are chock full of small businesses
catering to the traveler, including rent-by-the-night tipis. Honey Creek runs clear throughout the park
and creates two deep swimming holes, one at the base of the falls and one further downstream. If you
feel healthy enough, climb the stone stairs to the Castle ruins. Built in the late 20s and early 30s by Dr.
Ellsworth Collins, a professor at the University of Oklahoma, the native stone castle-like structure,
complete with turrets and towers, served as his ranch headquarters. Now in various states of decay, the
castle hugs the mountain side. A driveway in the second set of ruins leads to the mountain top, from
which you can look down upon the 70 foot water falls.

Back on US 77, you'll cross I35 again to parallel it once
again from the east. Keep your eyes peeled for signs to
Arbuckle Wilderness, a drive-by safari attraction.
Further north are the ruins of an old tourist court,
across the old 77 from a trailer park. The abandoned
cabins are faced with fossils, no doubt an added
attraction for the road weary traveler of long ago.

US 77 becomes a wide, straight highway once again
as it leads towards Davis. Davis is itself a lovely town
with a restored train depot and several old
gas stations - the kind with living quarters on top -
doubling as BBQ restaurants and antique stores.

Detour: Take OK 7 to the east and find
Chickasaw National Recreation Area next to the
pretty little town of Sulphur.

Click here to get a good description of Oklahoma's only national park!

More travel logs of US 77 will appear soon. Come and explore with me!
Old tourist court near Davis.
US 77: "This Road Built With Prison Labor."
Fireplace inscriptions at castle.
4-14-1938. On tourist court gas station.
Castle in the woods.
Highway 77 Road Trip
Turner Falls Park