 |
| |
 |
Tips for When You Go
I know that as history lovers, you'd
rather cut off your hand than hurt
any item of historical significance.
Alas, sometimes our families aren't
hip to historical site etiquette. My
son once climbed on a tombstone
while I had my back to him - I was
SO embarrassed and no one even
saw us! So some rules you can tell
your significant others are:
I know that as history lovers, you'd
rather cut off your hand than hurt
any item of historical significance.
Alas, sometimes our families aren't
hip to historical site etiquette. My
son once climbed on a tombstone
while I had my back to him - I was
SO embarrassed and no one even
saw us! So some rules you can tell
your significant others are:
- Watch for holes in the ground
- Don't pick up anything that
compromises the integrity of
the site, whether it be a brick
or a piece of metal
- Obey NO TRESPASSING signs
- Ask permission to enter, if
you can. Most people will be
accommodating to your
requests.
- Watch for signs of vandalism.
Alert the historical societies if
you see anything, and take
care that there aren't any bad
influences lurking about!
- Turn off the car and explore!
Take a camera, a sketchpad...
close your eyes and envision
what the town must have
looked like a long time ago.
In the early 19th century, the eastern portion of the Red River Valley between Texas and
Oklahoma was mostly populated by Native Americans, however sparsely - the Caddo had
already been driven off the land, through force or by fleeing the approaching white man.
It was right after the Louisiana Purchase, and boundary lines had not been well
established. Further, the surveys of lands given to the Choctaws and Chickasaws were
faulty - whether this was intentional is open to debate - and the whole area was in
dispute. Did it belong to Texas, Indian Territory, or Arkansas Territory?
Within the next twenty years, the wild grass prairies and wooded hills would be
populated by newcomers. Anglo American settlers eager for the new lands acquired by
the Purchase would try to settle around the river. They brought with them African
American slaves. The Trail of Tears would lead the dispossessed Choctaws and
Chickasaws into a new frontier, vacated a few years earlier by the Quapaws. The river,
while still a wild stream, was slowly being transformed into a thoroughfare.
The Fort Beckons
To help settle the area, Fort Towson, built in 1824, served as an outpost to protect
travelers and the newly arriving Indians. The Choctaws, originally from the Mississippi
Valley, settled near the fort in the town of Doaksville, which they selected as the seat of
their tribal government (the Chickasaws would move further west to settle at Boggy
Depot). Doaksville also became a hub for commerce throughout the region. It would have
its own jail, hotel, and tavern.
Across the river, Anglo American pioneers who'd been chased out of Indian Territory
settled the southern portion of the Red River. They chose a site that they discovered
was the safest for river crossings, and one that was not too far away from the fort and its
business. Along with African American slaves they founded Jonesboro. It also became
the northern gateway to Texas, welcoming the likes of Stephen F. Austin and Sam
Houston. The town grew into a sizable river port, hugging the river banks with brick-built
homes, wooden warehouses around the port, and small industries.
Jonesboro found its end rather quickly. In 1846, a tremendous flash flood literally
drowned the town. A contemporary account explained how the river grew almost a mile
wide. Jonesboro citizens decided to move to drier land. Most moved to nearby
Clarksville, and others relocated to surrounding towns such as Boston (New), DeKalb,
Paris and Bonham.
Luckily, Doaksville didn't sit right at the river. It survived the flooding, but couldn't
survive the demise of Fort Towson. As the line of American settlement forged west, so
did the fort's soldiers, and Doaksville severely declined in population. When the railroad
bypassed the town after the Civil War, the Choctaws moved the government seat to
Tuskahoma. Doaksville ceased to exist on later maps.
The Trail Lures
While the frontier stagnated during the Civil War, it rebounded into a frenzied push to
the west afterwards. Small towns west of what is today Interstate 35 began appearing. In
Texas, Spanish Fort became a rough and tumble border town. The first inhabitants of the
town had been the Taovayans, who successfully beat Spanish troops by building (or
occupying) a moated fort in the late 18th century. Anglo settlers claimed the site for
themselves and named it Spanish Fort (believing the canon and fort they found
belonged to the Spanish). Located just a few miles east of the river crossing at Red River
Station, Chisholm Trail cowhands would visit to buy supplies, meet up with friends, and
maybe order a new pair of boots at H. J. Justin's shop on the town square. Outlaws
called Spanish Fort home, too - its proximity to Indian Territory making for an easy
getaway. The town found its demise when the railroad laid tracks farther south.
Fleetwood, Oklahoma, is another Chisholm Trail era ghost town. The cows would ford the
river at Red River Station in Texas and pass through Fleetwood and its dry goods store.
Fleetwood served as the last supply stop for trail hands heading north. Fleetwood
remained a small ranching center even when the trail trickled to a halt, as a toll ferry and
later, a toll bridge, spanned the river crossing. Until the first half of this century,
Fleetwood had a school and grocery store. As opportunity lured younger people to the
larger towns and a free bridge was built west on US 81, Fleetwood succumbed to modern
flight.
I chose to include these four ghost towns because each were directly related to one
another. As you can read from their histories, the Red River Valley is indeed
interconnected, the river not separating two states but defining their shared past.
Oklahoma was mostly populated by Native Americans, however sparsely - the Caddo had
already been driven off the land, through force or by fleeing the approaching white man.
It was right after the Louisiana Purchase, and boundary lines had not been well
established. Further, the surveys of lands given to the Choctaws and Chickasaws were
faulty - whether this was intentional is open to debate - and the whole area was in
dispute. Did it belong to Texas, Indian Territory, or Arkansas Territory?
Within the next twenty years, the wild grass prairies and wooded hills would be
populated by newcomers. Anglo American settlers eager for the new lands acquired by
the Purchase would try to settle around the river. They brought with them African
American slaves. The Trail of Tears would lead the dispossessed Choctaws and
Chickasaws into a new frontier, vacated a few years earlier by the Quapaws. The river,
while still a wild stream, was slowly being transformed into a thoroughfare.
The Fort Beckons
To help settle the area, Fort Towson, built in 1824, served as an outpost to protect
travelers and the newly arriving Indians. The Choctaws, originally from the Mississippi
Valley, settled near the fort in the town of Doaksville, which they selected as the seat of
their tribal government (the Chickasaws would move further west to settle at Boggy
Depot). Doaksville also became a hub for commerce throughout the region. It would have
its own jail, hotel, and tavern.
Across the river, Anglo American pioneers who'd been chased out of Indian Territory
settled the southern portion of the Red River. They chose a site that they discovered
was the safest for river crossings, and one that was not too far away from the fort and its
business. Along with African American slaves they founded Jonesboro. It also became
the northern gateway to Texas, welcoming the likes of Stephen F. Austin and Sam
Houston. The town grew into a sizable river port, hugging the river banks with brick-built
homes, wooden warehouses around the port, and small industries.
Jonesboro found its end rather quickly. In 1846, a tremendous flash flood literally
drowned the town. A contemporary account explained how the river grew almost a mile
wide. Jonesboro citizens decided to move to drier land. Most moved to nearby
Clarksville, and others relocated to surrounding towns such as Boston (New), DeKalb,
Paris and Bonham.
Luckily, Doaksville didn't sit right at the river. It survived the flooding, but couldn't
survive the demise of Fort Towson. As the line of American settlement forged west, so
did the fort's soldiers, and Doaksville severely declined in population. When the railroad
bypassed the town after the Civil War, the Choctaws moved the government seat to
Tuskahoma. Doaksville ceased to exist on later maps.
The Trail Lures
While the frontier stagnated during the Civil War, it rebounded into a frenzied push to
the west afterwards. Small towns west of what is today Interstate 35 began appearing. In
Texas, Spanish Fort became a rough and tumble border town. The first inhabitants of the
town had been the Taovayans, who successfully beat Spanish troops by building (or
occupying) a moated fort in the late 18th century. Anglo settlers claimed the site for
themselves and named it Spanish Fort (believing the canon and fort they found
belonged to the Spanish). Located just a few miles east of the river crossing at Red River
Station, Chisholm Trail cowhands would visit to buy supplies, meet up with friends, and
maybe order a new pair of boots at H. J. Justin's shop on the town square. Outlaws
called Spanish Fort home, too - its proximity to Indian Territory making for an easy
getaway. The town found its demise when the railroad laid tracks farther south.
Fleetwood, Oklahoma, is another Chisholm Trail era ghost town. The cows would ford the
river at Red River Station in Texas and pass through Fleetwood and its dry goods store.
Fleetwood served as the last supply stop for trail hands heading north. Fleetwood
remained a small ranching center even when the trail trickled to a halt, as a toll ferry and
later, a toll bridge, spanned the river crossing. Until the first half of this century,
Fleetwood had a school and grocery store. As opportunity lured younger people to the
larger towns and a free bridge was built west on US 81, Fleetwood succumbed to modern
flight.
I chose to include these four ghost towns because each were directly related to one
another. As you can read from their histories, the Red River Valley is indeed
interconnected, the river not separating two states but defining their shared past.
| Know Your History! The main reason why none of these towns exist as such today is that the railroads bypassed them. |
| Traveling History Here's how to get to these sites and what you'll see. Some of the ghost towns still have residents; others only exist through the text of historical markers. Doaksville - From US 70 in Fort Towson, take the north road to the cemetery (signs posted). Drive to the back of the cemetery (which is worth a visit in its own right, with WPA built stone walls and hand carved tombstones) and you'll find a set of stairs. After traversing them, you'll enter a trail leading to the old Doaksville settlement. An archaeological survey done by the Oklahoma Historical Association uncovered several stone foundations. Along the trail, signs explain what the remnants once contained. This is a fun but eerie walk through a deserted town in the middle of a forest. I heard footsteps walking behind me when I was there, yet I came alone... Jonesboro - Jonesboro (or Jonesborough) is located on a tight bend of FM 410 where the settlement of Davenport now lies (FM 410 is a looping road that connects on both ends to FM 195 in north western Red River County). You'll find a roadside park with a few historical markers and an old tombstone which was discovered by a farmer plowing his field. After the flood of 1846, Jonesboro was carried off brick by brick by other settlers. Even the graveyard was dismantled. Martha Sue Stroud, resident Red River County historian, details the sad demise in her outstanding book, "Gateway to Texas: The History of Red River County." Further down the road is the site of a Caddo archaeological excavation. Spanish Fort - This ghost town has still quite a few residents, but can be considered a ghost nonetheless for the history that used to be here. Situated on FM 103 (north of US 82 in Nocona on FM 103- follow the signs), it sits close to the river. You'll find an old store, abandoned school, and a few historical markers. Don't miss Old Spanish Fort Cemetery, where gunfights ended many of the lives buried there. The remains of the fort are on private land. Fleetwood - Take US 81 to Terral, then turn east down Main Street (follow the historical marker sign). The old store catches you by surprise. Northeast behind the store are the remains of the school house. Further east down the road is a group of markers recounting the history of Fleetwood.. The sweeping views alone are worth the trip. |
| At this cistern in Doaksville, the last Confederate General, Stand Watie, surrendered. |
| Jail ruins in Doaksville, which is now a protected archaeological site. |
| Looking inside the abandoned store in Fleetwood, Oklahoma. See any ghosts? I don't, but I do see some bullet holes... |
| The grave of Jane Chandler Gill at Jonesboro is said to be the oldest Anglo grave in Texas, or at least the Red River Valley. While the historical marker claims she died in 1816, Skipper Steeley, a historian from Paris, Texas, found evidence that she actually died in 1846. |
| This unmarked cement grave at the Old Spanish Fort cemetery looks a little like a shroud. |
| Four Red River Ghost Towns |
| Store at Spanish Fort along the Chisholm Trail |